Short Girl Problems: Altering Trouser Patterns

Tilly and the Buttons Marigold Trousers

It’s no secret I love my first pair of Marigold trousers…yes, despite the MC Hammer debacle (!!) There’s still a little summer left and I was keen to have a pair of light trousers to see me through to Autumn. So the Marigold Trousers are back for a second showing and are less deep seated than before…keep reading for how to alter the pattern if you too had the same issue.
You’ll notice I’ve stuck with a lovely light peach skin feel polyester (again from Adam Ross Fabrics, their range is brilliant!) but this time in a beautiful burgandy-aubergine colour; when I showed my mum she said it was wine but it’s more purple toned. I love this colour when autumn is approaching; it’s also a really practical colour to wear, without resorting to black!

Now for the fun bit…altering the pattern. It’s really simple and can be used to both shorten and lengthen the trouser body. You need to find the hip line on the pattern – some patterns highlight this for you but if not, hold the measuring tape at your waist and measure downwards to your hip line then measure the same distance on the pattern pieces. Draw a horizontal line across your trouser front and back pattern pieces at the hip line. Then, measure half way between the trouser top (the top of the pattern piece) and hip line and draw another horizontal line – you’ll cut along this this line to make your adjustment. Don’t forget you’ll also need to line up your two pocket pieces and mirror what you do with your main trouser pieces with your pockets.

Shortening or Lengthening Trousers

To lengthen the pattern, simply move the two cut pieces apart for the distance you need to lengthen the pattern by, and to shorten, overlap the two cut pieces by the amount you need to shorten this by (for me it was 2 inches). You just need to restick your pattern pieces and smooth out your lines on your new pattern pieces so it doesn’t look joined (for me, this meant grading back out).

Shortening or lengthening trousersShortening or lengthening trousers

As you can see, altering the pattern has made the trousers much more wearable for me, as the pattern itself was lovely otherwise. So I’ll be catching as much of our Indian summer as possible to get lots of wear out of these bad boys before I have to put them away for winter!

If you like this, why not check out my Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers review – I adore them!

Looking for more transitional pieces? Then you might like my Simplicity 8041 dress review.

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